Pretty Bushed...

Banshee has been running on Blox rear lower control arms (LCA) since before I bought the car. Blox LCAs are pretty much known to have sucky bushings. I’m actually amazed the bushings lasted this long (6-10 months) as compared to what I’ve been reading on the internet.

Either way, I’ve been looking for alternatives to the Blox bushings. I’ve read that you can use a certain Energy Suspension (don’t know part number) bushings to fit into the Blox arms though they require abit of trimming. I was also looking at totally replacing the arms with another brand that has better, more reliable bushings like Skunk2 or Hardrace since theyre both available locally.

I was also looking into custom bushings. Got a couple of quites and some were so expensive that it was cheaper to buy and install brand new Skunk2 arms. But then I stumbled upon THIS THREAD in ZTH. Price was reasonable and PU typically lasts pretty long.

Met up with the guy and chatted abit about the bushings. He claims that he himself is using in his EF Civic and has been using the same exact bushings for the past 5 years. Since the price was pretty cheap I decided to go for it. The whole process took 2 days.

Just so happens that the workshop he deals with is Fast Autoworks ran by Ah Keong whos pretty known among VTEC guys as a good engine builder. Fast Autoworks don’t make the bushings. The bushings are sent to a machine shop somewhere but Fast Autoworks does the arm installation etc.


Banshee sitting on her sexay ass at Fast Autoworks while waiting for the Blox LCA to come back with the new soft pu bushings.






Heres a picture of the Blox LCA with the original bushings.



Closeup of one of the torn bushings.


The Blox LCA with the new soft pu bushings


Closeup of the new soft pu bushings


Banshee feels much better now that the bushings has been replaced. Even in corners she feels very well planted to the ground. I’m happy with the new soft pu bushings and would recommend them to anyone. The guy is a friendly guy and trustworthy too.



Meanwhile, since a couple of my friends also built their VTEC engines with Ah Keong, I asked him to check on some issues I had with Banshee. My idle was very erratic and pretty low. It could go as low as 450rpm. Aircond was practically useless during these times as the engine would just die.

Ah Keong also mentioned that the car felt slow. Especially at the bottom end of the rev range. After some checking he noticed that my cam setting is a little off and that my adjustable cam gear was also slightly off. He reset the cams properly and the car felt much better. This actually also helped with the idle. But it was too high at 1.5krpm. Sometimes even shooting up to 2krpm. He decided to try and change my IACV with a used unit he had. Idle went back to normal.

So now Banshee feels much better overall. Idles well. Aircond is useable again. No worries about bushings. Power delivery is nice and good. Even the VTEC kick is more noticeable now.

Its all good. Now all I have to do is wait for the next open track day at SIC and hope I have the money for their ridiculously priced entry fee.

I seriously hate Khir Toyo for demolishing BT3 track. Track day every weekend and very reasonably priced. I could go for 4-5 track days in BT3 with the price that they charge for ONE SIC track day. Last heard hes on trial for corruption... HA HA HA HA HA HA.... DIE MOTHERFUCKER DDDIIIIIIIIIIIIEEEEE!!!

Pedalling and Shifting

When I bought Banshee, she came with Razo pedals which I thought were HUGE! So I decided to remove them.

Here are pix of how close the brake and throttle pedal are….



With my feet on the brakes, its almost touching the throttle (actually it sometimes does)



After removing, theyre’re definitely further away. You can see the huge difference.



I plan on installing the Mugen pedals to bring the brake and throttle just a little bit closer. But I gotta admit. Heel n toe is easier now without the Razo pedals.

For the clutch, I plan on installing the Razo pedal as its much bigger than the Mugen. Pressing on the big clutch pedal actually feels nicer compared to the stock pedal. Will update when the Mugen pedals are in.



Next update is about my shifter. I got myself a custom shifter extender. A friend of mine organized a group buy and got a machine shop to custom make the shifter extender for us. The shifter is 4” long.

Why shifter extender? Its basically to bring the gearknob up closer to the steering wheel so that your hand travels less from the steering to the gearknob. Take note that this is best paired with a quick shift.



Take note that Honda Shifters and gearknob has a thread of 10mmx1.5mm which is different from most other cars.


Installation is pretty straightforward. But even that I managed to screw up. LOL. Keep reading and take note of the nut position and what I say about it.

All u need is a size 14 spanner and ur good to go. First of u remove the gear knob obviously.



Then you screw in the extender ON TOP of the nut.
NOTE: the picture has the nut on top… this is WRONG! It should be at the bottom.



Once you screw in the extender ON TOP of the nut, screw in your gearknob and tighten it as much as possible. The top thread for this custom unit is a tightening thread so it will be harder to turn the knob the deeper it goes. But just keep going. Then you tighten the nut at the bottom to keep the extender in place. Continue tightening the knob on the extender. Once done, loosen the bottom nut and align the numbers on the gearknob properly so that theyre straight.. and tighten the nut again.



Again, the picture above has the nut installed WRONGLY. The nut should be at the BOTTOM of the extender.

A picture of before and after extender. Remember, the nut position is WRONG.


Here is a picture of the same extender installed PROPERLY in my friend’s (Meor) DC5. Notice the nut is at the BOTTOM.



Yes, after much pain I have managed to put the nut at the bottom the way it should be…but in the process I managed to scratch my extender… but I have covered it with black shiny heatshrink so its all good now. Don’t have pix of it though.

I am really liking the extender. As I mentioned earlier this is best paired with a quick shift or the Type R shifters. With the extenders the throws between gears are further so if you use it with stock shifters, itll be even further. Quick shifts are often very stiff to shift from one gear to another. The extender also helps to reduce this stiffness.

Though the extender is not necessary, I do like having it. The shorter distance between steering wheel and gearknob makes this ideal for track driving. But the longer throws not so much for drag. Though if ur shifting is super fast, im sure you can more than make up for it during drags.

If you’re interested to have one for your Honda, there are commercial shifter extenders available on the internet

1/ Circuit Hero
* The Circuit Hero extenders are 5” long

2/ Rocknob Shift Lift
* If you read the description its originally meant for Jeep. But it can be used as the thread is the same as Hondas. (Rocknob Shift Lift 3" Shifter Extension in 10mm x 1.5mm)
* This extender is 3” long

3/ JTC Extenders
* I really like this one and may pick it up in the future. Its customizable length and also has an angle which you can set to whichever angle you like. You may choose to use or not to use the angle depending on what you prefer.

4/ DIY Shifter Extender guide (it’s a little ghetto though)
* Its ghetto but works the same. Could be cool if you could beautify it.

There are other extenders out there. Even the knock off brand Jasma has a shifter extender which comes with the Proton Waja quick shift kit.

Bucket seats... FINALLY!

So, everyone who I hang with is practically sick and tired of me rambling on about bucket seats… and now, they can breathe a sigh of relief coz I’ve finally bought my buckets! w00t!

Previously I was using stock EG6 94 spec seats. Also known as seat batik. God only knows why they call it batik when the design doesn’t even come close to a batik. People really need to figure out better names for these things… like the rear compartment in the boot is usually referred to as “tong ikan” (fish barrel if translated to English directly)… seriously…..WTF? Where in God’s name did they come up with these names?? Sheesh.

Anyway, pix of my previous seats





And my new current bucket seats.. tadaaaaaaaaa!!!!



Yes, I finally decided to get meself a pair of Recaro SR3 despite me being concerned about the weight of 15kg per seat. I figured they were the best all rounder as they are very comfortable, the bolsters hold you in your seat very well and it has the quick tilt feature to make it easier to get in and out of the back seat. They are also very easily available and prices don’t differ much from one seller to another. I got mine from a friend we call Bob.

Bob gave me a good price which I don’t want to mention here but the seats are from a 2000 spec Civic Type R EK9 and best of all it comes with 2 sets of rails. The original EK9 rails as well as wat Bob told me was the Spoon low down rails (for EK9). Seat condition was almost perfect except for a barely noticeable flaw on the passenger side.

If you look at the picture of the seat pair above closely you will notice that the seatbelt buckle and the rotating adjuster is on the same side. The rails were fitted wrongly in it’s previous car in Japan. This caused some confusion when Bob and his assistant tried to fit it the other way round and make it proper.

Picture of the rails after we removed it to fix it proper. There were no visible markings that I could find on them to say that they’re actually Spoon rails. And the rails look brand new. The black paint on the rails were also top notch as I took a self-tapping screw and tried to scratch it but couldn’t.


Bob (right) and his assistant trying to figure out which rail goes where.


After awhile, it seems that the rails wouldn’t fit properly and must be fitted the wrong way around… I didn’t want this so we fitted the original EK9 rails and tried fitting them in the car. The EK9 rails and EG rails are ¾ the same. Only 1 screw will be out of place. More on this at the end of the post.

Here is Bob and his assistant fitting the passenger seat in the car. This was with the original EK9 rails.


Thankfully while Bob was fitting the EK9 rails onto the driver seat he noticed that he made a mistake earlier with the Spoon rails and realized that they actually can be fitted properly. So they removed the passenger seat and original EK9 rails and fitted the Spoon rails onto the seats. I’m thankful for this coz the EK9 rails were seriously high. It made the seating position so high that I was a lil uncomfortable with it. It was even higher than the stock EG6 seats!

So once the Spoon rails were fitted properly, Bob and his assistant continued to fit both seats in the car. YAY!

Here are pix of the seats in the car (with Spoon rails). Ignore the black-like patches on the seats… that’s just the suede material playing games on the camera lens











I mentioned earlier than the EK9 rails will have 1 bolt out of place. When most people install EK9 rails into an EG they will leave that 1 bolt unbolted. That 1 bolt is the rear inner side of the rail. The rail on the inner side is slightly longer on the EK as compared to the EG. I didn’t want to have any loose corners and Bob agreed with me. So what Bob did was he bolted the rear first which would leave the front hanging out with a gap between the rail and the hole for the bolt. And this is how Bob fixed this and bolted all 4 corners down.



Those golden round washer thingamajiggies are actually washer like stuff from the EK9 seatbelt assembly. With a slightly longer bolt (which I got from my spare rear ARB) Bob fitted 2 washers on each of the gaps and bolted everything down nice and tight. This is just a temporary solution mind you. Though I do believe those washers can take it as they are from a seatbelt assembly. I will be adjusting the rails later on to properly fit into the EG.

The Spoon rails sit lower than the EG6 stock seats. And are definitely MUCH lower than the stock EK9 rails (damn, those were high). I have to lower my steering column to be able to drive comfortably. But the seat position now is very comfortable.

As for the seat themselves, I love them. And so does my lovely wife. She really like those seats. I also have a pair of SSCUS NSI bucket seats which I will be fitting into my wife’s kenari.

I do plan on full bucket seats one day… but I doubt that’s gonna be anytime soon. I have other more important things to do with the car.

New Brake Pads.. Vibration Issues Solved

Next up on the list of updates, is brake pads! I had vibrations at the steering wheel when braking hard. I initially thought the rotors were warped. So I decided to contact LYN forumer maddriver (whos an ex-really driver and currently a mechanic near The Mines) to check up on my brakes. After testing and checking out the rotors, he said that the rotors don’t need skimming. I have already decided to skim the rotors and change the pads, but since he said the rotors didn’t need skimming, I just changed the pads since the old pads, although still thick, weren’t biting that well.

I chose the Rapid Stop 550C pads. The main reason I chose this is coz they’re cheap. RM280 for EK9 pads with install. Unlike the Endless etc which could go up to RM500 and above. But I still do intend on getting higher end pads from Endless or EBC. For now, the RS pads will suffice. I have yet to take the pads to track, heck, I have yet to take Banshee to track. So I can only give feedback on normal day to day use which will come after the pix.

The box itself is faily simple.



Picture of the pads both inner and outer.


And here are the pads sitting behind muh X.


If you’ve never heard of Rapid Stop pads before, its probably because the pads are local (if im not mistaken). One of the reasons why theyre so cheap. I’m not sure who makes them but one of the main dealers is LYN former maddriver which is who I got it from. And if you go to the RAPID STOP WEBSITE you can see the list of other dealers on the “Where To Buy” tab. As you can see, the list of dealers include some pretty well known workshops in Malaysia and also includes our very own rally champion Karamjit Singh! The pricelist and model availability is also on their website. I like this. Everything is out in the open and transparent. So prices should be the same almost everywhere.

As for the pads, maddrivers feedback when I asked about them is that the 550c pads should be able to last for about 10 laps around SIC where it will start to fade. The 800c pads were not really suitable for daily use as it squeals and eats discs but absolutely great for all out revving on track.

As for my own feedback, I like these pads. They work great even when cold. Unlike most other performance pads (which included my cheapo Bendix Metal King in my old EF civic 9 years ago) which needed to be heated up before they’ll bite. The bite itself is about as much as I’d expect (though a lil less than what I'd like, but close enough). I cant compare them to other brands as I’ve never used other brands on this car. And I cant compare them to the old pads (which were Akibono or something like that) coz those pads were burnt, which is why it didn’t bite so well.

Anyway, after installing the pads, the vibration on the steering wheel has gone. So my rotor wasn’t warped and it was just brake pad judder. Phew.

Just one downside of these pads.. sometimes after some REALLY hard revving and REALLY hard last minute braking, I find that they fade a lil too soon. Makes me wonder about the SIC 10 laps claim honestly. But for day to day and occasional revving. They are absolutely bang for buck!

Slotted (and mebbe crossdrilled) rotors are still in the planning. I do intend to install them one day but will have to find some suitable ones. And more importantly have to find the marneeeeeee.

HKS SPF Element

Its been a long while since I've updated this blog... Banshee has had a couple of updates.

So heres the first of the updates.

First off, I’m using HKS SPF Air filter for my car.. and I find that the filter element has become a lil hard. So I decided to get a replacement element from Samurai Racing in Sunway. Forgot the exact cost, but its roughly less than RM90 if I remember correctly. And this is for the original element. There are a lot of fakes out there, so if you want the original element, remember to go to trustworthy or reputable shops that you or a lot of your friends are confident they sell originals.

The replacement element itself


Check out the comparison between old and new. I actually didn’t realize that the old element was so friggin dirty! I was shocked when I saw the difference and was so glad to have decided to change the element.


Heres a comparison of the inner side


Element installed and compared with the old…


I gotta say, it does make the engine bay a lil more cheerful with that bright green instead of that black oily crap on the old element hahahahhaa



So make sure to check your element if you’re using the same filter as I am. And check regularly. There is a recommended interval to replace the element. Something like 80,000 kms or something like that. Cant really remember. Go check it out yourself.

Personally, I am not really a fan of the HKS SPF or the mushroom filters as theyre called. But it came with the car so I’ll use it first. I’m planning on changing it to the Blox filter and later on maybe to the Blitz SUS stainless steel filter. Both filters I plan to pair with a Velocity Stack from BPI most likely. Read HERE to find out why I wanna install the stack

And here is a BPI STACK COMPARITIVE DYNO RESULTS

And speaking of stacks, something I discovered while changing the element and to me is a plus point towards the HKS SPF. If you look at the picture below, you’ll see that the HKS SPF already has a velocity stack built in.!

Banshee @ EA Autoworks And Some Points About Rear Anti-Roll Bars

March 19th 2011 was a rather gloomy day… its been raining for hours.. and it didn’t look like it was gonna stop any time soon.

But still, me and a fellow LYN forumer by the nick of madman20 wanted to go to a car audio and performance shop in Bukit Jalil called EA Autoworks. From what I can remember, this is a shop started by 3 colleagues who used to work for a different accessories shop. At the time they advertised their services for their former workplace rather aggressively online. Offered very reasonable prices and from feedbacks, very good workmanship and support. In the end, for reasons unknown, the 3 of them left the company and started their own which is EA Autoworks. Some of you may know their nicks online which are drexchan, khguan and howiechoo.

The main reason I wanted to go there is coz I wanted to check out the Civic FD2 (Non-R) rotors from a brand called “Imp” (subbrand of Improve, I’m sure, by looking at the logos) to see if they were a good replacement for my current Prelude BB1 front rotors which I think are warped. Yes, I get the “right” vibrations at the steering when heavy braking. Anyway, the Imp rotors are vented, slotted and cross-drilled and are priced at RM5xx.

The BB1 rotors are 282mm and so is the FD2. But the FD2 originally comes in 5x114.3 lug pattern while the BB1 are originally 4x114.3. My BB1 front rotors have actually had their lug pattern re-drilled to 4x100. From a simple quick look, the FD2 rotor looks like itll fit (if re-drilled to 4x100)….but to get proper confirmation khguan suggested that when I have the moolah, to head back to EA, remove my BB1 rotors, do a side by side comparison. And if it’ll fit, pay a deposit, he’ll send them to a machine/engineering shop to get them re-drilled to 4x100 and install it when it gets back.

I’m still looking around for other possible solutions. I’ve found VTTR rotors for FD2 at Kakimotor for RM750. The VTTR are vented, and slotted only. But the sexiest part about them is that they’re black…and I mean BLACK. Not sure if the black would actually last a few meters of braking…but I seriously doubt it. Im pretty sure ull end up with silver rotors ha ha ha… Unfortunately, the staff at Kakimotor isn’t sure about whether or not the VTTR can be used to replace BB1 rotors. And theyre not the type of shop that would make the offer that khguan did which is removing my rotors just to check. And if I get khguan to remove my rotors, check and its ok, it really wouldn’t be nice of me to be buying the rotors at Kakimotor right? So we’ll wait and see…I’m still on the hunt.

Another reason I went to EA is to get my new (well, newly bought but used) rear anti-roll bar installed. Yes yes, I already have the Ultra Racing ARB installed but this was an upgrade.

The Ultra Racing Rear ARB is 19mm while its replacement ARB is 23mm. The new ARB came from a JDM DC2 Integra Type R. Take note that JDM ITR ARB is 23mm while USDM ITR ARB is 22mm. Both will fit directly into the EG without problems (provided your car has the mounting points and mounting hardware).

Even though the DC2 ARB is thicker than the UR, there is still an advantage to installing the UR. You don’t need to have a rear subframe brace… the 19mm of the UR bar is basically the max u can go without a subframe brace and not cause your subframe to tear. Anything thicker (like the DC2 ARB) will require a subframe brace as the subframe on the Civic EG (and EKs as well) are pretty thin to handle that much stress. So the 19mm is the best bang for buck to avoid more money being spent on a subframe brace to avoid tear-outs.

Luckily I have already installed a subframe brace as you can see in previous posts. Mine is a replica of the ASR brace. Looks almost exactly alike, just not finished as nice. Works about the same, though the original ASR would probably work better with stronger components used but at slightly more than twice the price of the replica. Why did I get a replica? Well original ASR is almost impossible to find in this country as they don’t really have a presence here. And the only place which I’ve only heard of selling originals is about a 4-5 hour drive away. So yeah….

If you intend to install the Type R (DC2 or EK9) ARB into your Civic EG (or EK) I STRONGLY suggest getting the subframe brace. Easiest to find in Malaysia would be the replica ASR brace. Or from the knock-off brand “Jasma”…seriously…skip the Jasma and get the ASR. If you’re willing to order online, there are other brands (which obviously includes original ASR) which has subframe braces…. Off the top of my head…

- ASR
- Function 7
- BlackWorks Racing
- Beaks

They all look hawt right? Take note that I placed the Beaks last on purpose ha ha ha ha.

Anyway, on to the pix…

Banshee jacked up and ready to go…Short stoke!!


The Ultra Racing 19mm Anti-roll bar removed and put side by side with the DC2-R 23mm Anti-roll bar for comparison


A closer comparison between the 2 ARBs


Now look at the difference of the sizes of bushing and mounting C bracket… the JDM DC2-R is monstrous compared to the UR.


Final installation of the DC2-R ARB on Banshee… that’s khguan doing the work. He complained that in all his yeas installing an ARB, mine is the first one ever that he had to remove the rear muffler ha ha ha… this is coz the screws on the ASR brace were too long to remove with the muffler still on.


Banshee on all 4s with the DC2-R ARB installed..


The new thicker rear ARB did make the car feel stiffer to roll in corners. Looks like the thicker size is doing its job. And that’s a good thing. Me likey!


Now remember earlier I said to skip the Jasma brace and go for the ASR? Well here’s one reason to go for the ASR instead of the Jasma.

Take note of the mounting points for the ARB on the ASR below… Top is 19mm and bottom is the 23mm.


Notice how the 2 mounting holes are different? This is good coz then at least u don’t have to worry about mounting points on the brace itself. As you can see it will be able to fit BOTH 19mm and the bigger 23mm bars.


Now below is a picture of the Jasma brace I found online (credits to the original owner)… looks to me theres only mounting holes to fit 1 size… and I don’t even know what size. So you decide. I still would go for the ASR. I don’t know how much the Jasma costs… and I seriously don’t even wanna know.




As for EA Autoworks, both drexchan and khguan were cool. Didn’t get a chance to speak to howiechoo though. Never met him before so not sure if he was there. Both doods were nice to chat with and were funny chaps. Especially drex who for some reason kept tripping over everything LOL!

The shop itself is pretty clean as far as workshops go. There wasn’t much oil on the tiled floor and it wasn’t slippery. Parts were stacked in a simple way but everything looked to be in their place.

Service was good. Price is decent. Aftersales support is good from the feedbacks and online posts I’ve gathered (this was only my first time there).

The only complaint I have about EA Autoworks is the fact that their toilet is FILTHY! Yes, I said it with a capital F,I,L,T,H and Y with an exclamation mark.. But its not the kinda filthy from people shitting or peeing all over the place…but everything was black from all the oil on and around them. And it also had a bad odor. Not a toilet I would wanna use. The reason I mention this is coz I have bowel problems and tend to have a tendency of running to the toilet quite abit and at the worse times. So a decently clean toilet is EXTREMELY important to me. Thankfully at the time I didn’t have a need to go but just went in the toilet to wash my hands…

I seriously hope the EA guys would do something about it. They need to keep in mind that their customers tend to be there for long periods at a time so basic amenities like a toilet should be well kept…Even the workshops in Sunway which are usually very busy (especially on weekends) have clean toilets. Some of the toilets there are almost spotless. EA guys, you seriously need to do something about this.

UPDATE: It seems that the EA guys have listened to the complaints and have done a serious cleanup of their toilets. Kudos to them. They even posted a picture of the cleanup on their facebook.

Now the main thing is to keep the toilet clean. At least now I wont have any 2nd thoughts about going there :)


For the service, price, etc etc EA is definitely a shop I would go back to… but the condition of the toilet would make me seriously think it over (but would probably still end up going while making sure my tummy is empty).

As for wat madman20 did at EA…..ask him yerself if ur curious :P

Some Fixer-Uppers for Banshee

No mods this month... as I kinda used all my cash to get muhself a pair of brand spanking new Motorola Defy...costs RM999 per piece with Maxis' 2 year contract. Bought two, one for me n one for muh lovely wife.

Some might say not worth it to sign up for Maxis bla bla bla...but truth be told, I’ve been with Maxis for so long, I have no interest to change now or anytime in the future. Plus, my number is one of the first batches of Maxis hotlink prepaid (but has been converted to Postpaid a few years ago)…so you can imagine how old the number is…

Anyway, back to the topic. No mods this month for Banshee…but there are some fixer uppers done to her this past month…4 to be exact… 1 has been annoying me since I got the car…2 unintentional but had to be done, and the last one was simply coz it was time.

Before we begin, I do have to apologize for the quality of the pix. Most are taken in bad lighting conditions and the camera was a 5mp on the Motorola Defy. Definitely no match for my C905’s 8.1mp Cybershot, but during the times the pix were taken, the C905’s battery was dead… so live with it.

So lets start with the easy one…

1/ Bought new wipers for muh Banshee…this was simply coz it was time…
I’ve never really been much of a wiper brand person…so I just use whatever wiper brands that work… and I mean those that can wipe REALLY well… I’ve even used some fake BOSCH boneless wipers and that cheap fake wipers lasted over 2 years in Cutie Pie and gave excellent visibility when it wiped. I really liked those cheap wipers and were really impressed by them….

So this round, I decided to try something even cheaper hahaha… you know when you go to Giant or Tesco or Carrefour there are some stalls that sells many different kinda things? Well one of the stalls sells wipers for cheap @ RM10 per piece. So a pair is RM20 (in case some of u get confused). Cheap eh? Though I’m not sure of the material…but at RM20…gotta be Rubber right?



As you can see…the wipers are the boneless type wipers. My favourite kind. Coz these type of wipers look really neat when installed. Keeps the clean look of the car.

As for how the wiper performs…I truly have no idea…I bought it weeks ago but have not had the chance to drive it in the rain. When it rains, I’m usually in the office…Since I bought it, I have only used it for ONE wipe. That’s it. Yes, seriously…ONE. And that was coz I was driving under a flyover and a drop of water came to my screen. But judging by that ONE wipe…it was alright ;)

2/ Next up…unintentional but had to be done…

Heres a pic of Banshee…notice anything not right?



If u guessed it right… u get 10 points!

Yes, the passenger side windscreen moulding went missing! (Forgive the dirty fender, more on that at the end of the post)



Don’t know when it happened exactly, but I do know why. A few of the clips you see still attached to the frame were broken. That side of the moulding has never really sat properly so its somewhat of a blessing in disguise that it came off.

Consulted a few friends and they recommended either LHS in Jalan Ipoh or Exceptional Autoparts in Glenmarie to get the parts. And since Exceptional is MUCH closer to my apartment than LHS, Exceptional it is then!

To my surprise they had it in stock. Surprised coz the EG is a pretty old car and I was told that Exceptional caters more towards newer models. But hey, they had it and I was so happy that I emptied out my wallet and bought it @ RM180. Sadly, they only accept cash.

However, I forgot to buy the clips..and even if I remembered, I didn’t have the cash. I only remembered about the clips when I went to the guy who painted Cutie Pie to help me install. He said since the clips are broken, he wants to just put silicone glue to ensure the new moulding doesn’t fly off… it was fine by me. I had no intention of removing the moulding anyway. Unless necessary that is…which by then ill probably have to rip it apart and buy a new moulding. So lets pray that everything stays good :D

Heres a pic of the new moulding installed



Now whenever I look at the moulding, it makes me wanna buy a new moulding for the top too…hahahahhaa. The drivers side is still good thank god…

Next…

3/ The thing that has been seriously bugging me…my third brake light…

Heres a pic of the brake light that came with the car… see that fat ass on it??



I really hate that fat ass… and heres the reason why…



As you can see my view in the rear view mirror is seriously impaired coz of that fat ass…I really couldn’t stand it…so I went hunting for a nice thin rear brake lights… wanted those that uses bulbs but couldn’t really find a suitable one coz bulbs somewhat require a fat ass too…so I settled for the thinnest type available, LED brake light.

Even then I had difficulty finding one that suited my needs…until I decided to follow a friend’s suggestion and go to Brother’s to see if they had any. And lo and behold…I found exactly what I wanted…nice, long and more importantly thin LED brake light with adjustable legs that’s mounted via double sided tape.

I bought this for RM35 at Brother’s



Here you can see the “adjustableness” of the legs…



(don’t pray pray..its Super Intelligent! Hahahaha)

And here are (crappy) pix of the brake lights installed…notice that I didn’t connect the wires directly and used connectors instead. More on that in abit





Brake lights on…looks pretty decent eh?



In case anyone is confused… the bottom row of the 3rd brake lights are the real ones and the top row is a reflection…..duh!

I used connectors to make my life easier down the road. LED brake lights like this has a tendency of dying off 1 at a time. Either totally dead, or blinks til it dies….also, this is from Brother’s and everyone knows the quality of the stuffs in Brother’s are somewhat “questionable”. Which is why I didn’t even bother looking for the lights at Brother’s in the first place. So the connectors are in preparation for when that happens (hopefully not so soon). All I need to do is unplug the connectors. Crimp in new connectors (which I have a lot of and are also easy to find in hardware shops) onto the new unit and stick it on.

And heres a before and after pic of my rear view mirror. It may not look like much…but this change made a HUGE difference to me. I can see things MUCH clearly now.




I also recently changed my steering rack + crossmember. Hence u see the dirty fender in the earlier picture. My steering rack was leaking, causing me to top up on power steering fluid every now and then, so I got a pretty decent quote from Avantech for the entire crossmember set and steering rack and went ahead with the change. The new crossmember set came off a JDM Integra DC2 Type R. This also includes the front anti roll bar from the DC2-R. This change actually gave me more turning radius… with the previous rack I only managed to get 1 round of the steering (from centre) before lock. With this, I managed to get 1½ rounds. And since I have to make a tight U-turn everytime I wanna go home, the higher turning radius is much appreciated.

Since the new set also included the front anti roll bar, my previous anti roll bar, which is also from a DC2-R was taken out and I now have an extra set for sale.

My previous TYC headlamps are also up for sale. Links to the ARB and TYC sale ads are here:

[WTS] DC2 Integra Type R FRONT Anti-Roll Bar

[WTS] TYC Projector Headlamps - Civic EG

Thats all for this post, folks!